Usually because the first layers did not bond to the build plate: the plate was not levelled, the bottom exposure was too short, the resin or room was too cold, or the plate surface needed cleaning. Supports that are too weak can also let a part tear off partway through.
A print on the film instead of the plate is one of the most common resin failures, and the checks are quick.
Check the build plate first
Levelling: follow the printer maker’s levelling procedure; an uneven plate leaves part of the first layer unbonded. Cleanliness: residue or cured resin on the plate weakens adhesion. Surface: some plates benefit from light sanding, as their makers describe.
Check the bottom exposure
The first layers use a longer exposure so they bond to the plate. Resin makers publish settings for common printers; too short a bottom exposure is a classic cause.
Check temperature
Resins have a working temperature range. Cold resin is thicker and cures less completely. Heated vats, a warmer room or letting resin reach room temperature can help, following the maker’s advice.
Check the film and lifts
A worn film increases peel force. Lift speeds that are too fast for large layers can pull parts off. The printer and resin makers publish lift settings.
Check the supports
Parts that detach partway through often need more or thicker supports, or a different orientation that reduces the area of each layer.
After a failure
Remove the cured layer from the film carefully, filter the resin to remove debris, and inspect the film before the next print.
Questions makers ask before buying
What should be done with a print stuck to the film?
Stop the printer, remove the vat, and carefully free the cured layer without puncturing the film, following the maker’s advice. Filtering the resin afterwards removes loose cured pieces.
Does a colder room really matter?
Many resins print less reliably below the temperature range their makers publish, because they thicken and cure differently.
Last reviewed 15 September 2026